Edinburgh was hot for most of our visit, so the first supernatural benefit of the Double Dead Tour was that the underground vaults had excellent natural air-conditioning.
By the time it began to rain in Greyfriars, the city had finally arranged the weather properly.
We did not see any ghosts. Some American visitors said they had seen something curled in the foetal position in the corner of one of the vaults, alarmingly close to where I had been standing. I saw stone, shadow and absolutely nothing else. My psychic sensitivity is roughly that of a blueberry scone.
Even so, the tour stayed with me. Not because it proved anything paranormal, but because Edinburgh understands how to make a story cling to a place. Give somebody a ring of keys, lead them through a locked gate and tell them what other people claim to have seen there, and an ordinary dark corner becomes very difficult to look at casually.
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